"It wasn't exactly a love letter - Karl Lagerfeld is much too savvy for sentiment - but the Chanel collection he showed today was, he conceded, 'a vision of France from a stranger who thinks France is not that bad.' So you could almost construe Lagerfeld's last three ready-to-wear collection for Chanel as an uncynical celebration of French banality: the supermarché, the manifestation, and now, the brasserie. The Brasserie Gabrielle, to be exact. The Grand Palais, the grandest exhibition space in le tout Paris, was turned into the kind of all-day, leather-banquette-ed winer-and- diner you can find on almost and street corner in Paris.
But the original idea came from a place of love, so the stumble was easily overlooked. Especially because the collection itself was the strongest RTW showing from Chanel in a while. It had a sturdy base. The whole show was staged on a single style of shoe, a toe-capped, mid-heeled slingback-ringard in local parlance, because it is so bourgeois, but Lagerfeld loved the poise, the confidence, the ease of walking it gave his models. And that degree of comfort with bourgeois dress codes stabilised a collection that spiralled in a dozen directions. There were at least 97 looks - that's a he playground - but there was enough tweed to restore Chanel to its core." - style.com
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