Sunday, November 03, 2013

Saint Laurent Spring 2014 #PFW

"The inspiration: It's hard to tell, because Slimane does not really speak to the press. But obviously, the Saint Laurent archives were a rich source. The verdict:  It was as if Slimane were trying to channel Saint Laurent at his most subversive when he presented the 1971 "Vichy Chic" collection of 1940s-inspired garb that evoked strippers and drag queens. Here, the clothes definitely had a Frederick's of Hollywood quality. (It's worth pointing out that the L.A.-based designers Kate and Laura Mulleavy of Rodarte evoked a similar vibe with their spring runway collection shown at New York Fashion Week. Angelenos are creating outsider fashion all the way.) What about the clothes? Well, what about them. They weren't much. But this week in Paris we've seen plenty of shows where the clothes have been beside the point. (Rick Owens' step dance ode to joy for one, and Comme des Garcons' psychological assault on the senses with whiplash-inducing looks and scratchy, stopping-and-starting music for another.) It's obvious Slimane is thumbing his nose at the fashion industry." -

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