"Environment as an expression of character - the very idea was catnip to Moralioglu, because it translated so effortlessly to clothing. All he had to do was come up with the character. Fascinating, because it got to the heart of Moralioglu's creative process, maybe even revealing more than he's care to about the way his mind works. Because his muse was a nut, a woman fallen on hard times, trailing clouds of faded glamour, shreds of privilege, delusional notions of her own capabilities. Moralioglu wove an inspiring fashion fantasia out of his broken muse. His rich, complex fabrics have always been his strongest suit, but Moralioglu was pleasingly disrespectful with them in this new collection. He reversed his lavish jacquards, exposing a lurid underside, and then, when he's cut them into proper little dresses or full-skirted party frocks, he frayed them, just as he frayed his tweeds. Needle=punching, fashion's shortcut to provocative narrative, was dazzlingly utilised in a camel coat blended with a rococo jacquard, an ocelot coat mixed with shaggy black shearling, and, for the finale, sporty knit sheaths punched into floor-sweeping fill coupe that had been randomly decked with ostrich plumes. It was surreally elegant." - style.com
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