"'Sweet…,' said Miuccia, 'but violent. I wanted impact. How can you be strong with pastels?' The answer was to drench them in irony. She had a couple of working titles for her new collection. 'Softer pop' was self-explanatory, a riff on the colour palette. But 'variation on beauty' touched on a longtime fascination of Miuccia's: the relationship between the real and the fake. This show set out to address that issue from both ends of the spectrum. Some of the most appealing items in the collection were cut from ostrich, but equally, a molecular print that harked back to Prada's good-/bad-taste glory days was actually an image of genetically modified ostrich. Tweeds came woven and printed. Music from Walt Disney's Fantasia played, as a reminder that images of extreme beauty can spring from absolute artifice. In fact, there was something a bit cartoonish about the pieces cut from a hyper-smooth, spongy sci-fi fabric that most of us took for neoprene. It was actually a double-faced jersey. 'I could do things with that fabric I couldn't do with another fabric,' Miuccia enthused." - style.com
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