John Galliano Spring 213 - PFW

“Gaytten moved away from the founder’s theatrics in favor of a cleaner, more architectural sensibility that played to fashion’s current fascination with volume. He worked it via Japanese touches or, as he put it, “Geisha notes,” i.e., origamilike bra tops with flowing pants and gowns with front pleating and folds, fitted from behind with an exposed back. The overall effect was highly sculpted but still light — a notion Gaytten extended to the pretty coats that looked as sweet and airy as whipped cream. Oversize kimonos added a bit of Poiret, though rendered with a modern hand — there was no room for vintage in this collection.” - WWD