"Valli says he's reached a point of clarity in his career: His couture is an expression of the art of his atelier; his ready-to-wear is industrial craft, as mass as the production of these clothes is ever likely to get. This season he was fascinated by Japsn's postwar Metabolist movement, which balanced industrial and artisanal design, the machine and the hand. Valli was insistent that his new collection expressed that balance. 'The silhouette is extremely designed,' he said, 'but the materials are industrial.' That wasn't immediately obvious, given that the fabrics had such a crafted feel, like the dress cut from s macramé lace - it looked ilk a print from far away - of the floral-printed leather. The cutouts and pat work also felt very hand-y. Whatever the breakdown of man and machine, the collection still stood as Valli's most accomplished to date. The crispness of the silhouettes, the accuracy of the proportions (that sounds like such an off point to make, but it's something Valli has been a little loosey-goosey with in the past), and the sophisticated textures of the fabrics made for something quite complete." - style.com
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