"Instead of exploring the history of women, which I have for a while, I decided to take care of now, the present, and trying to find elegance." These were her words after a show that in some ways did strip back brand Prada to its innovative, recognizable foundations. The girl in the black tank t-shirt and black knee-length box-pleated kilt who came out at the beginning was a clear reminder of the '90s minimalism of which the Prada techno=stretch uniform set the pace. But this wasn't like a literal retrospective at all. There were many reminders of Prada's taste down the years, like her permanent passion for a '20s or '30s Deco-graphic print on a lovely fit-and-flare midi dress, and her abiding obsession with tiny knickers - this time of the high-waist type the 1940s star Betty Grable would've recognized. Still, what really stood out were Prada's madly extravagant miles of ostrich and marabou trimmings on stoles, smothering envelope bags, fluffing up necklines and sprouting, Dr. Seuss-like, from sandals. Eventually, they got married up with the wonderful things in the show."