Sunday, September 28, 2014

Antonio Berardi #RTW Spring 2015 #LFW

"As Antonio Berardi explained before his show this morning, he found inspiration for his latest collection in a film, The Flowers of War, that he stumbles onto white flipping channels in Italy. The prints were a mixed bag; patter-wise, Berardi had more success with his tonal embroidery and painterly floral, both of which has an echo of chinoiserie. There was also a nod to the chinese setting of Flowers of War in some sexed-up cheongsam-style dresses, and another nod to the church backdrop in nice-looking, squared-off blouses redolent of vestments. But the film also proved a productive inspiration when Berardi interpreted it abstractly, expressing the innocence and evanescence of childhood memory. The flutter of a blush-tones blouse, the floating volume of a full white skirt - these were evocative, ad it was nice to see Berardi working a softer, more buoyant silhouette. Still, the standout looks here were undoubtedly a floral cheongsam and a black pencil dress, both slashed through at the collarbone. This was Berardi at his va-va-voom best. And beyond that, the sheer cleanness of the shapes, and the garments' lack of sculptural flourish, made them cut through the noise of a show that was in need of some discipline and focus." -

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