Wednesday, March 12, 2014

Erdem Fall 2014 #LFW

"Recent visits to the Academy of Fine Arts in Vienna and to the costume holdings of London's Victoria and Albert Museum started Erdem Moralioglu thinking about imperial treasures. In Vienna, he was dashed by a roomful of Diego Velazquez's portraits of the "extraordinary infantas" who married into the Habsburg dynasty - or more specifically, by the artist's depictions of their armourial bodices and stiff stomachers and the illusion they presented of flattened shapes. At the V & A's state-of-the-art storage facilities in Blythe House, meanwhile, he discovered William Kilburn's album of late eighteenth-century botanical prints, intended to be used at the time as designs on calico. Those botanicals were interpreted in rich damasks and brocades in silk and velvet or embroideries on quilted silks, modernized by being bonded with neoprene to give them body without weighty infrastructure and works in tidy 1960's-couture silhouettes, like boxy little shifts or bell-skirted frocks." -

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