"The show was bookended with outfits styled around armorial cuirass bodices inspired by the cardboard tailor’s dummies that students in a dressmaking graduation class might drape their designs on, the press studs at the seams allowing them to be fitted to various body sizes. For Gaultier these were “tender and hard at the same time,” and he iterated them in a variety of fabrics from leather to heavy shot taffeta to gleaming metallic Lurex. There was also a spirit of the eighties in the broad-shouldered jackets and batwing-sleeved georgette dresses, and the print of the smoky-eyed silent-movie star that was also woven into the knits, but this runway was generally more Alexis Carrington Colby than Betty Blue. There was grown-up luxury all around." - vogue.com
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