'Once a minimalist always a minimalist? Not necessarily, at least if the creator in question is Phoebe Philo. The powerful Céline collection Philo showed on Sunday made a daring argument for overt, unfussy surface decoration, her appetite for such flourish perhaps whetted by the flamboyant modernist plaids she worked to exquisite effect for fall. This time, Philo took her decorative urges in a different direction, channeling tribal, artisanal concepts into some serious optic verve. The bold graphics startled, at least initially; here was an aggressive statement — in a good way. Philo retained her clothes’ inherent refinement while injecting them with a primal energy influenced not only by the creative adornments of exotic, nonspecific cultures, but also by Western graffiti. One could also nod to a pair of designers who preceded Philo to the earthy palette-bold brushstroke genre of decoration: Jean-Charles de Castelbajac and Donna Karan.' - wwd.com
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