"The excitement surrounding Maria Grazia Chiuri's debut at Christian Dior was palpable - the first woman ever to take charge as creative director of this storied house, which for so long has stood for "femininity" in the psyche of French culture. But what does "femininity" mean in today's world? Chiuri is a grown-up professional, who comes from long experience at Valentino, and is ready to put forward her own synthesis of what modern femininity can look like. "The message, really, is that there is not one kind of woman," she said. What emerged wasn't a predictable chocolate-box repackaging of ladylike house codes, but a refreshingly widened viewpoint, inclusive of the sporty and the fragile. The balance between the two led to a whole series of relatable, simple, practical pieces aimed at drawing in a new audience. [However] there were plenty of things, which were pure Maria Grazie in this collection - her talent with a lacy blouse and beautifully embroidered tulle dresses and skirts, for example. Through the lineup, the net dresses, scattered with flowers, leaves, and tiny insects, and Chiuri's sumptuously innocent full-length dresses embroidered with tarot card imagery, were reminiscent of the work she did at Valentino." - vogue.com
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