"Rousteing was backstage, talking up this turning point before today's show and taking aim at his critics. "The Balmain Army has shed its armor," he said. "Whatever I do, even if I cover up my girls, people can say it's vulgar. But this is what it is. I think it's really chic, really French. It's Paris how I see it." But that doesn't mean this was a minimal collection. The excesses were just of a different sort. There were cut-outs on bodices that revealed a good bit of underboob, fashion's new erogenous zone. Slits extended way up the front of both thighs. And provocatively placed sheer bits drew the eyes to the hips and derrière. This is still plenty body-conscious. But in place of glitzy embroideries Rousteing let color do the talking. There were also a lot of knits. For evening, he proposed long split-seam dresses pavéd with multicolor crystals in Art Deco motifs and slinky chain mail dresses à la Versace. That's the kind of growth that the critics he was talking about backstage could believe in." - vogue.com
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