"Valentino’s Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli took opera as their source material this season. The micro minidress with beaded lace collar that opened their Fall collection has been replaced by a more worldly and well-traveled fringed cape embroidered with turquoise, coral, and red in a pattern that was hard to pin down. Grecian? Egyptian? From somewhere else in North Africa? All you need to know is that Maria Callas' Medea, from Pasolini's film version of the classic opera, was on the mood board. Chiuri and Piccioli's muse is no longer a girl with a pearl earring. She's a mythological sorceress. Innocence, then, has been replaced by something not altogether darker for Spring, but certainly more mysterious. It lent a richness to Chiuri and Piccioli's recognizable silhouettes. As they said beforehand: "It's a fashion opera. A show has to be a show." Even as flat sandals adorned with golden scarabs reasserted the realness of the collection, some of the long black lace gowns embellished with brightly colored details looked not all that unlike costumes or indigenous dress—elevated to the hautest levels, of course." - style.com
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