"In the Miu Miu collection she showed today, she did not disappoint. It was the companion piece to her Prada presentation, in its rebellious view of femininity, yet here, it was the clichés and classics of the feminine that were explored and presented as perverse. "Anything that is classic, a repeat in history, a genre of woman or clothes that always comes about," defined the designer after her show. "Classics, classics of trash, classics of chic, classics of the good girl, classics of the bad girl." - style.com
Saturday, November 02, 2013
Maison Martin Margiela Spring 2014 #PFW
"Trapeze artists, acrobats, animal trainers, soubrettes: the brilliant energy of the circus and its artists is engaged elegantly in Margiela's fashion show, shiny sequins, precious gems, jewels. Magnificent yet rigorous, it plays with provocative contrasts and unexpected parings that are at the heart of the brand. Glitz and glamour flirt with perfect tailoring, sartorial rigor gives space to a more irreverent spirit, a triumph of decorations and embellishments, an hyperbole of exaggerations." - vogue.it
Louis Vuitton Spring 2014 #PFW
"It was all black. Pitch black. Walls, floors, set, seats, clothes. Funereal black. Evert model wore a dramatic feathered headdress like the plumed horses in a funeral cortege. This was Marc Jacobs' final show for Louis Vuitton and, although it was only after the last model had left the catwalk that it was officially confirmed, the audience clearly felt it - judging by its standing ovation. As for the clothes, they were exceptionally beautiful. Taken from menswear, he said, and then lavishly embellished with dazzling textures. Hence baseball jerseys, football tops, tuxedos, motorcycle jackets, T-shirts, and tank tops received the Vuitton super-luxe treatment - embroidered, bejewelled, feathered and sequinned - ti within an inch of it life. The only non-black items in the entire collection, came in blue denim. Funnily enough, the jeans, sometimes patchworked with raw frayed edges, sometimes covered with sparkling jet, will be the must-have piece of the collection. They looked brilliant here worn with spiderweb fine tulle dresses festooned with embroideries and jewels." - elleuk.com
Lanvin Spring 2014 #PFW
"Lanvin: Shine. It’s a noun. It’s a verb. It’s a high-gloss surface, and it’s what the cool kids did in middle school. It’s what we want fashion to help us do, whether literally or symbolically. It was inspired in part by a photograph of the brocade-clad women, bride included, at an orthodox Jewish wedding in Jerusalem, their grim visages suggestive of unspoken woes, “everything shining,” the designer said during a preview, “but their eyes.” He thought, too, about the notion of the clothes as mirrors, to reflect the audience. “But that was just the idea. I also thought, ‘Let’s also bring back regular clothes. Let’s bring sportswear, let’s celebrate the individual.’” And so he did in a collection that dazzled, literally and otherwise. Elbaz offered fabulously chic clothes to suit every womanly inclination: refined, sexy, elegant, butch, relaxed — everything but puerile, as his aesthetic is consummately adult. Sportswear looks were as casual as a trench over a top and skirt; androgynous tailoring paid clear respect to Saint Laurent, and an elastic-waist jumpsuit both celebrated and mocked its utilitarian roots. Dresses ranged from flappers to sheaths, to a constructed slip and even a long, dark number that swung Goth." - wwd.com
Kenzo Spring 2014 #PFW
"Kenzo had been the coolest brand around since its revamp a few seasons ago from Opening Ceremony's head honchos. Since then, it's been nothing but must-have sold out tiger sweatshirts (a street style star in its own right) and killer eye motifs galore. For Spring 2014, Kenzo took on a whole other animal - fish - and made what will likely be another collection of gone-viral garments. Flopping fish adorned many pieces - embroidered on jackets and dresses, patched together and tessellating on blouses. The creature's look is totally retro outdoorsman, but in cool pastels and transplanted onto inventive silhouettes, it's all Kenzo cool. Another standout look from the collection was anything drip-inspired. Think a dripping-hem, button-up cropped blouse or a squiggly collages sleeveless dress. Kenzo also took on a kind of striping: driving-rain-inspired marks reminiscent of pencil, in black or other colors and on separates. The brand's now-ubiquitous cheetah print was also present, but re-imagines with a lighter pencil-like touch and in different colors, which made them almost abstract. If Humberto Leon and Carol Lim have anything to say about it, Kenzo won't be out of the "fashion powerhouse" category any time soon." - thefashionspot.com
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